Editor’s Note: Here at MODERN SALON, we believe in the importance of hearing from a wide variety of voices from across the professional beauty industry, especially on contentious topics, to help our readers discover perspectives from different angles.
In this article, as a hair color and texture expert and a trusted voice in our industry, Greg Gilmore (@greg_gilmore) shares his opinion on the discussion surrounding the health, safety and culture of chemical relaxer treatments – and why we shouldn’t be so quick to stigmatize them.
For decades, hair has served as a powerful form of expression, particularly within the Black community. As a cosmetologist with over two decades of experience, I have dedicated my career to helping clients embrace their beauty and identity through their hair. My journey began at age 15, assisting in salons in Cleveland, Ohio, before training with world-renowned brands like Paul Mitchell and L’Oréal. I honed my craft at the Vidal Sassoon Academies in Los Angeles, Toronto, New York, and London, earning ten diplomas in coloring, cutting, and education.
Over the years, I’ve worked as an Educator and Brand Ambassador for major brands such as Matrix Color, Design Essentials, and Moroccanoil, traveling globally to teach cutting-edge cosmetology techniques. Today, I’m recognized as one of the top experts in haircutting and coloring for textured hair in Los Angeles, serving clients ranging from everyday professionals to celebrities like Toni Braxton and Nia Long. Having been deeply involved in the evolution of Black hair care, I feel compelled to address the growing concerns about chemical relaxers and the public conversation around their safety.
Cancer Studies: More Evidence Needed
Recently, reports from the National Institutes of Health (NIH) raised alarms about the use of chemical relaxers and their potential link to uterine cancer. The NIH’s Sister Study, which followed over 33,000 women, suggested that those who used relaxers more than four times a year might face a higher risk of developing uterine cancer (1). Given that Black women are more likely to use these products, this has sparked understandable concern. However, while these findings are important, it’s essential to place them within the right context.
The NIH study acknowledged various confounding factors—such as the use of other personal care products, lifestyle choices, and genetic predispositions—that could also influence cancer risk. Additionally, the study classified pressing tools alongside chemical relaxers, which may have exaggerated the perceived risk. As with many health studies, it is critical that the public understands the nuances of the findings before jumping to conclusions. More research is necessary to determine the exact role of relaxers in increasing cancer risk.
Understanding the chemistry behind relaxers is crucial. Most chemical relaxers contain sodium hydroxide (5), a strong alkaline substance with a pH level above 10. This breaks down disulfide bonds in the hair, making it straighter. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, when used correctly by trained professionals, sodium hydroxide-based relaxers can be applied safely (4). However, the real risks arise when relaxers are misused or applied to damaged scalps, which can allow other harmful chemicals—such as parabens or formaldehyde, sometimes found in other hair products—to penetrate the body more easily. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has highlighted the risks of formaldehyde in some hair treatments, underscoring the need for professionals to understand the chemistry behind these products and take appropriate precautions (3).
Considering the Cultural History
The use of chemical relaxers cannot be fully understood without acknowledging the cultural history of Black hair. For over a century, hair straightening has been both a practical and emotional process for Black women. In the early 20th century, before chemical relaxers were available, Black Americans used hot combs and metal utensils to straighten their hair, often in response to societal pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards. When Garrett Morgan introduced the first commercial relaxer in 1910, it represented a turning point for Black hair care, offering a new level of accessibility and control over one’s appearance.
Today, many Black women see relaxers not as a tool of assimilation but as a choice of personal expression. For some, hair straightening offers versatility, convenience, and a way to feel more confident. While the natural hair movement has gained momentum in recent years, it’s important to respect the personal choices women make about their hair—whether they choose to go natural or opt for a relaxer.
Unfortunately, the growing scrutiny around chemical relaxers has led to broader stigmatization of these products. The notion that using a relaxer is inherently unsafe or somehow a rejection of natural beauty is both misleading and harmful. As a cosmetologist, I’ve seen the transformative power of relaxers when used properly, offering women the ability to embrace different styles and maintain healthy hair. The decision to use a relaxer is deeply personal and can be empowering, allowing women to define their beauty on their own terms.
At the same time, clients deserve proper education about the risks involved and the safest ways to achieve their desired look. This is where cosmetologists play a vital role. We are not only service providers but also educators, guiding our clients in how to maintain the health of their hair, whether it’s relaxed or natural. Ensuring that relaxers are applied correctly and that clients are aware of the importance of scalp health is critical in minimizing risks. The American Cancer Society acknowledges that while relaxers have been scrutinized for potential health risks, more studies are needed to draw conclusive evidence regarding their safety (6).
The NIH study, while informative, should be a starting point for further research, not the final word on the matter. To fully understand the relationship between relaxers and health, we need more comprehensive studies that isolate various factors and provide clearer guidance. Until then, it’s crucial that we don’t reduce the conversation to fear-mongering but instead focus on educating and empowering Black women to make informed choices.
The Power to Choose
Black hair is more than just a style—it’s a reflection of culture, identity, and empowerment. Whether a woman chooses to wear her hair natural, in protective styles, or chemically relaxed, that decision should be respected. The conversation about relaxers should be centered around education, safety, and the freedom to choose. As a cosmetologist, I’ve witnessed the power of hair to transform not only appearances but confidence, too. Black hair, whether natural or relaxed, is a testament to our resilience, beauty, and creativity.
The debate over chemical relaxers is complex, but one thing is clear: Black women deserve the freedom to make informed decisions about their hair without fear or judgment. By ensuring that safety is prioritized and respecting each woman’s right to choose how she wears her hair, we honor the legacy of Black hair care as a symbol of beauty, identity, and empowerment. After all, our hair is our crown, and we should wear it with pride—however we choose to style it.
Incorporating the latest research and reflecting on the cultural significance of relaxers, we can move beyond the controversy and focus on informed, educated decisions. It’s time to ensure that Black women have the knowledge and freedom to style their hair in the ways that best reflect their identities—while staying safe and empowered.
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Greg Gilmore is the Founder of Modern Hairitage Salon Sanctuary and a Global Color Ambassador for Moroccanoil. With over two decades of experience in the beauty industry, he is a specialist in textured hair and an internationally recognized educator. You can follow Gilmore on Instagram @greg_gilmore and @modernhairitage.
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